For the last few weeks, this space has been heavily Durham-centric.
Well, not this week.
Today our sojourn will be in the sunny climes of the Caribbean, by way of Brier Creek.
In Cuba and Puerto Rico there is a sauce called mojo (pronounced mow-hoe). It’s a very strongly flavored marinade. Along with herbs like oregano and culantro (culantro, not cilantro; it’s an entirely different plant), it’s full of garlic, olive oil, and bitter orange juice.
While different places have different varieties, the most common is mojo criollo. Criollo means Creole, which is a mixture of cultures. The cultures in this instance are Spanish, African, and indigenous Caribbean. Traditionally it’s used in amazing pork dishes.
A few weeks ago I went shopping to help fill fridge and pantry in The Kid’s new apartment. After Target, but before we hit Lowes Foods, we stopped at the dollar store. It’s terrific for nonperishables. I almost always buy egg noodles and canned beans there. I’ve also gotten amazing cosmetics there too. The $1.00 eye liner works better than one from Sephora costing $14.00.
As we were walking down one aisle, I spied a bottle of mojo criollo. It was a smaller size, but even so, $1.00 is a real bargain. The Kid picked up a bottle and so did I.
That was the first bottle I bought there. I used it to marinate pork tenderloin and flavor a pot of black rice for dinner one night. It was delicious.
Then I went back for a second bottle.
This time, I decided to color outside the lines. I would do something with it that I’d never heard of. I was going to make mojo pasta salad.
Mojo chicken pasta salad
1/3 cup + 1/4 cup mojo criollo
1 cup mayonnaise
Pinch of sugar
1/2 pound tubetti, sea shell, cavatapi, or lumaconi pasta
1 cup frozen peas, blanched and shocked
3/4 cup grape tomatoes or similar
1/4 cup diced red onion
3 cups cooked, shredded chicken
Salt and pepper to taste
Make dressing: Whisk together mayo, 1/3 cup mojo, and sugar. Add enough water to make it the consistency of creamy salad dressing. Taste and season. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours.
Slice tomatoes in half and place in colander. Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon of salt and let sit out for at least 90 minutes. This will draw out much of the moisture, so the tomato flavors are concentrated and the juice doesn’t dilute the dressing.
Cook pasta in heavily salted, boiling water until tender. Drain. While still hot, put into a large bowl and stir in ¼ cup mojo. Cool completely.
1 hour before service, gently mix together all ingredients. Stir in dressing. Make it a bit wetter than you want the final product, as the dressing will absorb into salad and will dry out as it sits.
Let sit at room temp for one hour. Before serving, toss and check for seasoning.
Serves 4-6 as a main or 8 as a side.
I served this with a large handful of pea shoots on top. They’re exactly what you think; tiny shoots from a pea plant. Fresh and green, with a mild peppery bite, they’re perfect for sandwiches and on top of dishes that need a hit of something bright. They’re perfect on scrambled eggs and avocado toast.
We also had some bread with our meal.
While I was at Brier Creek picking up the mojo, I stopped by Earth Fare for one of the best deals in town. They have freshly baked baguettes for only 98 cents, every day. Right before we eat I run it under some water, and toss it in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes or so.
This little trick brings bread back to bakery freshness. I keep rolls and buns in the freezer, and with this method, we have fresh bread on demand (when frozen, they go for 13 minutes). For yeasty dinner rolls, instead of water, I spread a thin layer of butter over the whole surface. They come out crispy and buttery.
Plate up some of this pasta salad, pour a glass of rum, and turn on the salsa music. You’re in Puerto Rico with no plane ticket required.
Thanks for your time.